Some general supercharger FAQ's from Eaton
Info related to fitting a supercharger to your Mitsubishi FTO
Q: What model of FTO are these kits for?
A: GR, GX, GPX, GPvR - basically all of the V6 models MIVEC and non-MIVEC.
Q: Can your FTO Supercharger kits be fitted to Tiptronic and Manual cars?
A: Yes either, fitting a transmission cooler is recommended for the Tiptronic models but my belief is that even if you don't fit one of our kits this is still worthwhile doing and it's quite a simple job.
Q: How much power/torque will I gain from fitting a Supercharger to my FTO?
A: We can't say for sure as every engine is different and it depends on a lot of factors like what existing modifications you have, how much boost you're going to run, the state of your engine, the tune etc but typically you should be able to achieve a 20-30% increase, maybe more. Check out the dyno graph in the gallery section
Q: How much boost can I run, what governs this and how do I increase my boost level?
A: It's all about the how much air the supercharger can deliver per revolution and the difference to how much the engine can breath in per crank turn, to deliver more air we spin the supercharger faster than the crank and this ratio is governed by the pulley size.
The Eaton M45 capacity is around 45 cu in / 750cc of air per revolution, the FTO engine breathes in 999cc of air per revolution (half it's 1998cc displacement) therefore we have to run the supercharger faster - 1.3 times faster (or 1.33:1) just to match normal breathing requirements but of course we want positive boost so with our FTO Supercharger kits we typically run a ratio above 2:1 depending on boost requirements.
The stock pulley fitted to the mini's Eaton M45 is too large and will only produce quite low boost therefore a smaller pulley (often called a reduction pulley) is required. A 17% reduction pulley should see around 7 psi.
I have heard of FTO's pushing around 10psi on Turbocharged setups still running on stock internals, whatever level of boost you decide to go for is entirely at your own risk.
Q: How long will it take to fit one of your FTO Supercharger kits and be up and running?
A: You don't have to do it all at once, there is some prep work to do before the real work starts but after that it should only take ONE DAY. From start to finish you should be able to do this in a weekend or over a couple of weekends - you choose.
Q: What work will I need to do before fitting one of your kits? (full details will be provided with the kits or when requested)
Relocate the brake reservoir.
Remove the alternator pulley and fit our double drive pulley (alternator needs to be removed to do this, an impact wrench helps to get the pulley off).
Move the aircon pipe bracket near the engine mount slightly.
You may need to bypass the throttle body cooling pipes if not already done or extend them with two pieces of hose if you are keeping them as the throttle body location will be changed slightly.
A front strut brace will not fit with the Supercharger installed therefore if you have one it will need to be removed.
Q: How much room is there to mount a Supercharger in a Mitsubishi FTO engine bay and does it really fit?
A: There isn't much room as i'm sure you know but it does fit, check out further info in the Design section.
Q: Are any modifications to the bodywork required for example the bonnet?
A: Space is very tight, the bonnet may need raising slightly with a couple of shims under the hinges, alternatively lower the engine by a few mm (shims under the left and right engine mounts and a couple of washers under the lower engine mount cradle).
Tiptronic owners - The Mitsubishi Autobox isn't weak just suffers from overheating, I would highly recommend fitting a transmission cooler in-line with the stock cooler, it will help to protect the gearbox and are it's quite an inexpensive and easy modification.
Engine mounts - check if they are worn and if so replace them, you can get a more solid rubber insert or polly ones made. Tiptronic owners - I would recommend at least fitting manual lower engine mounts.
AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio) gauge - not absolutely neccessary as you should get the car tuned on a dyno but useful for initial setup and to keep an eye on your day-to-day fuelling. The correct one to get is a UEGO wideband (check out AEM and Innovate) which is a 2nd sensor in the exhaust so you will need to get a fitting welded onto the exhaust and the rest you should be able to handle yourself.
Boost gauge - one that reads psi.